✔Knitting Technology │Development Practice of Moisture-permeable and Quick-drying Knitted Fabric

â–¶ Causes and prevention of ammonia-containing elastic knitting dyeing and wrinkling

As the temperature rises in spring and summer, people's outdoor activities are more and more frequent. Therefore, the functional requirements for outdoor sportswear are also constantly improving , especially in the hope that the clothes can be cool and dry. But there are still wearing traditional clothing and poor comfort, such as cotton fabric Although good ventilation, but in outdoor sports state, put wet slower, the body will produce a sense of heat; synthetic fabric, although put wet fast, but thoroughly soaked Poor gas, the human body will feel stuffy when it is still or in a dynamic state. In response to such problems, this paper developed a new type of moisture permeable and quick-drying knitted fabric.

Polyester fibers have good strength, quick-drying, easy deformation characteristics, with a soft cotton fibers, insulation, excellent moisture absorption characteristics, and cotton blended fabric having easily deformed, flexibility, moisture-drying, wear comfort etc. .

The Pore l ® fiber developed by Nanjing Donghua Fiber Technology Development Co., Ltd. is a polyester modified fiber. It adds a hydrophilic group and a flexible group during the fiber synthesis process, and adopts a capillary cavity structure ( a cotton-like waist circular cavity). ) , so that its hydrophilic capacity is greatly improved, and the speed of water diffusion is accelerated . Cavity structure Pore l ® fiber after wet moisture vapor permeable excellent system, soft fiber, polyester is twice the natural moisture regain, no static, low-strength low elongation, cotton, viscose and other blended may be formed , anti-pilling fabric is good, you can reach level 3 or higher.

This paper uses a linear density of 14.5   tex (40 S) of Porel ®, combed cotton (65:35) blended siro spinning and 2.2   Tex (20   D ) Spandex for fabric development.

2 .1    Device parameters

Machine China Taiwan Ming Hao single round machine

Machine number            24 pin /25.4   Mm

Bore diameter            864   Mm( 34 " )

Number of ways                    102   F

Total number of stitches                  2   448 pieces

2 .2    Organizational structure

Porel ® , cotton blended yarn and spandex yarn are fed together with knitting needles to weave the weft jersey on a single-sided circular machine .

2 .3    Precautions

The precautions for weaving include the following two aspects:

a.    180   The dry heat shrinkage rate of P orel ® fiber is about 12% at °C. The shrinkage rate should be fully considered, and the process parameters should be reasonably set, which is different from the weaving of ordinary polyester .

b.    Keep the looms of the loom and avoid the contamination of the fabric by the weaving machine, causing defects [1] .

Fabric dyeing and finishing process: weaving → predetermined shape setting → → → dyeing finished.

3 .1    Predetermined shape

The predetermined shape temperature is 185   °C , the speed is 18   m / min, may be removed through the fine fabric surface practicing grease, dirt, etc., at the same time, remove the internal stress generated in the fibers during the weaving process, to ensure good fabric feel and flexibility.

3 .2    dyeing

Plain fabric staining, selection color No. 14-2311 tpx P antone of pale pink, using sets of dyeing, at 120   ℃ with the disperse dye staining P orel ® 30   Min , and adjust the dye solution to be acidic with glacial acetic acid ; then reduce the temperature to 60   Below 50 ° , dyeing cotton fibers with reactive dyes 30   Min .

Pore l ® fiber dyeing process prescriptions and conditions are as follows:

High temperature dispersing leveling agent     0.9 0   g/L

Mekicron Red ACE    0.13 0 %

Mekicron Blue ACE   0.006%

HAC glacial acetic acid 85%      0.84 g/L

Temperature 120   °C

Time 30   Min

The prescription and conditions of cotton fiber dyeing process are as follows:

Novacron Red FN-R     0.1 00 %

Novacron Blue FN-R    0.002%

Na 2 SO 4                   15 g/L

Na 2 CO 3                    5 g/L

Temperature 60   °C

Time 30   Min

After dyeing, at 60   °C warm water cleaning fabric 10   Min , wash off the surface of the cloth, and finally pickle, neutralize the fabric p H value.

3 .3    Shape

In order to ensure the specifications , feel and fabric quality of knitted fabrics , and consider the moisture permeability and quick-drying properties of the fabric, hydrophilic additives should be added when setting . The shaping process parameters and conditions are as follows:

AC neutralized acid 0.3 g / L

Hydrophilic softener   27 g/L

Water absorption softener   40 g/L

Overfeed 11%

4 .1    Basic performance

Basic performance tests fabrics, wherein the shrinkage and color fastness reference 135-2012 "dimensional change after washing Family" AATCC, torque reference AATCC 179- 2012 "fabrics and garments skew distortion performance after washing the family", anti-pilling Referring ball of ASTM D 4970- 2007 "pilling test method: Martindale pilling test", the test results are as follows:

Gram quality                 170 g/ m 2

Width       1 549 mm (61 " )

Code quality     264 g/m

-3% shrinkage warp

Worm -4 %

Torque              2.1%   

Color fastness                Level 4.5

Anti-pilling pilling level           Level 4

4 .2    Water vapor permeability

Using the ADIDAS 6.04 water absorption test standard, a certain amount of distilled water was placed on the bottom surface of the cloth to record the time when the water droplets were absorbed by the fabric , and the time when the water droplets were absorbed by the fabric after the original , 5 times, 10 times of washing and drying were tested .

According to the ADIDAS 6.04 moisture permeability test standard, the test results of knitted fabrics are best within 2 s [2] . After testing, the absorption time of the water droplets by the fabric after the original, 5 times, and 10 washes was 1.12 s , 0.62 s , and 0.47 s, respectively .

4 .3 fast drying performance

ADIDAS 6.07 drying using standard test, the sample mass was weighed first, and the amount of distilled or deionized water were put on the balance pan. Place the sample face up, then place the water drop at the center of the sample, re-weigh the mass after absorbing moisture , and record the time required for the sample to return to its original mass .

According to ADIDAS 6.07 fast drying test standard , cotton and cotton blend 3 0   After the min , the residual water content was less than 60% . After 5 times and 10 times of washing, the residual moisture of the fabric was 53.7% , 53.7% , 51.2% .  

4.4 Summary

In summary available, the fabric color fastness, anti-pilling were more than four levels, and moisture, excellent in quick-drying performance, excellent wearability, suitable for use in sportswear.

The knitted fabric is permeable drying function through the fiber and cellulosic fiber blend molecules modified form, instead of sorting out by chemical additives, functional durable, will not lose multiple washes, safety and environmental protection; knitting added Spandex makes the fabric have good elasticity and is more comfortable to wear . After testing , the fabrics have excellent performance indexes, which meet the requirements of consumers for comfort in outdoor sports.